Crossing the Tongariro

Tongariro Crossing

Another great adventure has been had. Yesterday Evan and I hiked the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in the Tongariro National Park in the central part of the north island. It’s one of the most beautiful places we have trekked on our journey. (It’s rated one of the best day treks in all of New Zealand.) The 19 Kilometer (12 mile) hike leads though volcanic terrain and then gains steep elevation to the saddle of the South and Red Crater which are sandwiched between two volcanic peaks, Mt. Ngauruhoe (2287m) and Mt. Tongariro (1967m). Despite the reports for bad weather descending upon us we were able to reach the top before experiencing it’s fierce blow. Thank goodness I had Evan to hold onto as we battled the winds, as I think I might have blown right off the crater. It was quite a challenging experience, but we were rewarded with amazing views of the Emerald Lakes and the two volcanic peaks. We were greeted with sunshine upon the decent and a beautiful rainbow. A hot shower and a home-made burger on the “barbie” were are final rewards. Ahh, this is life.

the clouds parted for the emerald lakes

Ev on the Tongariro Crossing

Rainbow surprise

Teeing it up in N-Zed!

When it comes to international golf destinations most Americans probably don’t even consider New Zealand. However, you may be surprised to know that NZ has more golf courses per capita than any other country in the world. Many of them appear to be laid back municipal tracks which are are very reasonably priced. But there are also some real gems, four of which my dad and I had the pleasure of playing over the past couple weeks.

Preface: For those of you who don’t know my father let me just say that he is an avid golfer. He religiously plays a round of golf each Saturday of the year (and usually sneaks in at least 9 holes during the week). This may not sound all that impressive except that he lives in rainy Portland where the conditions aren’t very inviting for 8.5 months of the year.

That said, I knew that if he was going to make the effort to fly around the world to visit us I’d better line up some good golf.

Here is a brief summary of the courses we played:

Paraparaumu

Paraparaumu golf club sits about 30 minutes north of Wellington on the Kapiti Coast. It has held the NZ Open 12 times and was named in top 100 courses in the world back in 2001. best-course-shot-used-in-promotion

This course is a classic links style course with plenty of undulation and long grass which managed to catch a couple of my errant drives. We had great weather on the day we played even though the forecast did not look promising. Our biggest test on this day was figuring out home many ‘meters’ our rental cubs would go (for those of you who face this problem in the future a meter is about 10% longer than a yard).

Cape Kidnappers

This course is probably one of NZ’s most famous. It is situated about 20 minutes south of Napier on the cliffs overlooking Hawkes Bay. For those of you familiar with Pacific Dunes (the second course built @ Bandon Dunes) this course was desinged by the same course architect, Tom Doak. In 2005 it was named the #27 in the top 100 courses in the world. course31

Of the four courses we played this was the most scenic. This picture shows the 16th green which is perched on a cliff over 300 feet above Hawkes Bay.

This course is also a links-style design that features deep ravines and firm surfaces. But what really makes this course challenging is trying to keep your concentration while absorbed in the incredible scenery! What was also unique about this course is that the greens-keeper grazes cattle throughout the course to help his crew with the mowing!

Wairakei

Just mintues north of Lake Taupo Wairakei is the only course we played that was not a links-style design. It was built back in 1970 with the objective of creating the first in NZ to be internationally recognized as a world-class championship course. It was also listed in the top 100 courses in the world in 2005. 8th-sm1

This course sits amongst the rolling hills that surround Lake Taupo and has a classic country-club feel. The landscape on this track is the most mature of the 4 courses we played. It didn’t hurt that we caught this course near the peak time for the trees to be displaying their vibrant fall colors. Both dad and I agree that if we had to got the privelage of belonging to one of the four courses we played this would be it.

Kinloch

The owners of Kinlock Golf Club get an ‘A’ for golf but an ‘F’ for marketing. In all of the golf tourist materials I read there was not one mention of this course which is a Jack Nicklaus signature design (the only one in NZ). Fortunately for us our accommodation was only 5 minutes away so we ended up driving by and stopping in to check it out. 14th405

If you’ve ever played a Jack Nicklaus signature course you probably know how challenging they can be. Kinloch is no different. It has a slope of 137 and the course record is only 70. Playing the course I can see why. There is no let up. Every shot requires some concentration.

This course is also a links style design with the most undulation I’ve ever played on (not only on the greens but in the fairway as well). There were numerous times where I thought our golf cart was going to tip over. Furthermore, every green is protected by a brutal set of bunkers, banks, and/ or collection areas which makes it difficult to run your approach shot up the green like you can on most links style courses. If you’re a glut for punishment this is your course.

Although neither my dad or I scored well here we still enjoyed the challenge as well as the satisfaction of playing this masterpiece. We were also treated to a series of beautiful views of Lake Taupo and the surrounding hillsides.

If you’re an avid golfer and are looking for an alternative to Ireland or Scotland you should really consider NZ!

The Second of the PU’s Arrive + a dear friend

The NZ Guests

The journey continues with the addition of the second half of the PU’s (The Swansons) and our dear friend Leslie. We have spent the last few days exploring Wellington. We have been staying 75 steps above Evan’s Bay (fitting wouldn’t you say) in a lovely home we are rented where we have shared many great meals, laughs, card games and daily excursions. The guys spent one day golfing at Paraparaumu while the ladies spent the day walking along the bay, lunching in the city and browsing the shops. We all visited the farmers market and devoured the Te Papa museum. Today we ventured to Wellington Botanical Gardens and then on to Martinborough for lunch and wine tasting.

the Dads

Tomorrow we will say good-bye to the McBride crew and our friend Leslie and the Swanson’s will head north for more adventures.

Schroeder’s “The Snowball”

There are very few people in the business world that I respect more than Warren Buffett (hereby referred to as “WB”).  His skill, success, conviction, simplicity, and humor are all characteristics that I have a deep admiration for.  In the past I’ve read several books which cover WB’s investment style but lack significant biographical detail.  The latest book about his life entitled, “The Snowball and the Business of Life” fills the gap where previous books have failed by focusing on his life including details about his upbringing, family, and business.

The book was written by Alice Schroeder who covered Berkshire-Hathaway as an equity analyst in her previous career.  According to the inside cover WB & Schroeder became friends over the years.  WB eventually encouraged Schroeder to pursue a writing career and offered her unprecedented access to interview family and friends with the goal of producing a cohesive book on his life.  The results are spectacular.  With the exception of “Atlas Shrugged” this has been my favorite book that I’ve read on our trip.

If you like what WB stands for or have an interest in his investment style this book is definitely worth a read.

In reading the first part of the book about his upbringing I took notes on some of the lessons that WB learned along the way.  These lessons would ultimately help WB achieve unprecedented investment success.

Here are the lessons:

a) “Inner Scorecard”- pg. 33- from father:  WB learned to have an “inner scorecard” from his father who always made decisions based on his principles instead of following trends or crowds.  This obviously helped WB make investment decisions later on in life when Wall Street considered them unpopular (or vice versa: not make investments when Wall Street considered them popular).

b) “It might be easier to go through life as an echo, but only until the other guy plays a wrong note.“- pg. 58- from a band experience.

c) Care about opinion- pg. 62- Sidney Weinberg- When WB was young his father took him to a Wall Street investment company where he got to meet the CEO, Sidney Weinberg.  WB remembers that Weinberg paid attention to him and asked him about his opinion which he appreciated.

d) Don’t fixate on what was paid for a stock- pg. 65- self-lesson from his investment days at the age of 12!

e) Don’t rush unthinkingly for a small profit- pg. 65- self-lesson from his investment days at the age of 12!

f) Investing other’s money- a loss may make them upset- pg. 65- self-lesson from his investment days at the age of 12!

g) Know the deal in advance- pg. 74- shoveling snow for his grandfather

h) Didn’t like hard manual labor- pg. 75- working in grocery

i) Don’t criticize others- pg. 99- Dale Carnegie’s “How to Win Friends and Influence People“.

j) Calculating odds, betting when odds are in favor, emotional decision-making- pg. 108- horse racing.

k) Thinking for yourself- pg. 134- Lou Green

l) A stock is the right to run a small fraction of a business- pg. 147- Ben Graham

m) When investing always use a margin of safety- pg. 147- Ben Graham

n) Mr. Market is your servant- pg. 147- Ben Graham

o) On not allowing money to change how he lives.- pg. 186- Ben Graham

p) “It pays to hang around with people who are better than you.“- pg. 158- His experience in the National Guard

q) Power of customer loyalty- pg. 169- owning a gas station business at a young age

r) Scuttlebutt/ qualitative analysis- pg. 263- Charlie Munger (who learned it from Phil Fisher which I wrote in this book review)

s) The retailing business is about merchandising, not finance- pg. 291- H-K retail company which he bought early on in his investment career.

t) “Far better to buy a wonderful company at a fair price than a fair company at a wonderful price.“- pg. 388- Gurdon W. Wattles

u) Ovarian Lottery- pg. 646- trip to China with Bill Gates

Other notes from the book:

*WB’s memory for #’s is remarkable.  There are various points in the book where he recalls details about dates and numbers in business dealings he had had 30 years earlier.  I have also met other financially successful individuals and this is a trait that stood out in my mind with these people as well.

*Quote: “In the short run, the market is a voting machine.  In the long run, it’s a weighing machine.

*Quote: “Praise by name, criticize by category.

*On WB & Charlie Munger: “They thought alike and had the same fascination with business as a puzzle worth spending a lifetime to solve.  Both regarded rationality and honesty as the highest virtues.  Quickened pulses and self-delusion, in their view, were the major causes of mistakes.

*WB’s focus: There are multiple sections of the book that describe WB’s focus.  In one instance he is on his plane with his family.  As the plane entered a period of turbulence he kept his nose down in his papers.

*On pg. 28-29 Schroeder writes out an average day for WB.  Worth finding the book to read for yourself.

*A hilarious practical joke WB played when he was younger.  Here’s his quote about it:  “I made up a letterhead from the American Temperance Union, Reverend A. W. Paul, President.  I’d write letters to people on that letterhead saying that for years I’d lectured around the country on the evils of drink, and in these travels my appearances were always accompanied by my young apprentice, Harold.  Harold was an example of what drink could do to men.  He’d stand there on stage with a pint, drooling, unable to comprehend what was going on around him, pathetic.  Then I said that, unfortunately, young Harold died last week, and a mutual friend had suggested that you might be a replacement for him.

*By the time WB was a senior in high school he had the following income sources:
a newspaper route, calendar sales, magazines sales, golf balls, car buffing business, and pinball machines.  In each of these instances he’d fund the business and hire a “partner” to do the work.  With his work he was earning more money than his teachers.

*WB originally began as a stockbroker but did not like the conflict of interest  that was inherent in the stockbroker- client relationship.

*Investing in yourself for 1 hour each day- “Charlie (Munger), as a very young lawyer, was probably getting $20 an hour.  He thought to himself, ‘Who’s my most valuable client?’ And he decided it was himself.  So he decided to sell himself an hour each day.  He did it early in the morning, working on these construction projects and real estate deals.  Everybody should do this, be the client, and then work for other people, too, and sell yourself an hour a day.

*On page 253 WB likens his value approach to investing as “buying dollar bills for forty cents…“.

*One of the main engines of growth for WB in his career is the ‘float’ money he receives through his insurance business.  Through ‘float’ his business received insurance premiums in advance of paying our claims.  During the time in which his insurance business had the money he was able to invest the funds and earn a return.  This profit on the money is what is known as ‘float’.  Banks also have a business structure that profits from ‘float’.

*Retail businesses are very difficult to invest in.  Charlie Munger explains: “Retail is a very tough business…  Practically every great chain-store operation that has been around long enough eventually gets in trouble and is hard to fix.  The dominant retailer in one twenty-year period is not necessarily the dominant retailer in the next.

*WB’s methodology for buying stock/ companies: “…estimate an investment’s intrinsic value, handicap its risk, buy using margin of safety, concentrate, stay in the circle of competence, let it roll as compounding did the work.

*From 1978 to 1983, the Buffett’s net worth increased from $89 million to $680 million.

*On page 514-515, the book describes the era of junk-bonds & hostile take-overs.  It sounded a lot like the 2003-2005 when financing was cheap.  The new name for “hostile take-over” however was “private equity”.

*Munger & WB on defining risk as volatility- they thought it was “twaddle and bullshit“.

*Schroeder provides a great explanation of derivatives on page 544.

*Chapter 48 covers the Salomon Brothers debacle where WB temporarily served as CEO.  In a great section of the chapter the author defines Munger’s term “thumb-sucking” as not speaking up or handling an problem as soon as it arises.  In the end leadership at Salomon at the time of the problems were guilty of “thumb-sucking”.  Had they acted fast and been transparent they likely would have avoided the issues.

*WB’s ‘front-page rule’ for conduct: “I want employees to ask themselves whether they are willing to have any contemplated act appear the next day on the front page of their local paper, to be read by their spouses, children, and friends, with the reporting done by an informed and critical reporter.

*When asked what one factor was most important in getting to where he’d gotten in life WB said, “focus”.  It turns out that Bill Gates at the same dinner replied with the same answer.

*Schroeder describing WB’s focus: “This kind of focus couldn’t be emulated.  It meant the intensity that is the price of excellence.  It meant the discipline and passionate perfectionism that made Thomas Edison the quintessential American Inventor, Walt disney the king of family entertainment, and James Brown the godfather of soul.

*The book covers briefly WB’s idea of the “institutional imperative” which is defined as, “the tendency for companies to engage in activity for its own sake and to copy their peers instead of trying to stay ahead of them.”  Obviously, WB isn’t too keen on buying companies that suffer from the institutional imperative.

*Munger & WB on using math models for investment decisions: “…using models to make investment decisions was like driving a car on cruise control.  The driver might think he was fully alert and attentive, but would find out differently when the road turned winding, rain-slicked, and full of traffic.

*WB’s advice for college graduates: “…go to work for whom they admire the most.

*As WB became more famous he got more demands on his time.  Here is how Schroeder described how he handled it:  “He did only what made sense and what he wanted to do.  He never let people waste his time.  If he added something to his schedule, he discarded something else.  He never rushed.  He always had time to work on business deals, and he always had time for people who mattered to him.

*WB describes an ideal business: “The ideal business is one that earns very high returns on capital and that keeps using lots of capital at those high returns.  That becomes a compounding machine.  So if you had your choice, if you could put a hundred million dollars into a business that earns twenty percent on that capital-twenty million-ideally, it would be able to earn twenty percent on a hundred twenty million the following year and on a hundred forty-four million the following year and so on.  You could keep deploying capital at those same returns over time.

The first of the “PU’s” arrive

Written by my wife Tina:

The first of the PU’s (aka Parental Units) have arrived in NZED! We are thrilled to continue our journey through NZED with our parents by our sides. The McBrides will be spending the next two weeks being vagabonds with us as we travel north along the east coast of the north part of the south island (Got that?). We will be joined by the other half of the PU’s, The Swansons, on the tip of the south end of the north island (that too?) in a few weeks and this island nation will probably never be the same!

Green Lipped

Although, slightly jet lagged we had the PU’s out yesterday seeing the sights of Christchurch…the arts center...lunch complete with green lipped muscles and savy-b…a walk along the Pacific Ocean beach and finally an afternoon coffee. We steamed up some delicious blue cod for dinner that we bought at the local fish market and sent them off to bed for some well deserved ZZZ’s.

Beach Walking

Today we had a long walk on the beach in Leithfield, north of Chrsitchurch, on the east coast of the north end of south island (You’ve got it, right?). The sun was shinning and we had the beach to ourselves. We lunched at Pegasus Bay Winery in the garden warmed by the autumn sunshine and the PU’s got their first authentic taste of the awesome NZED wines. The nap afterward was essential.

We will spend the next few days exploring the Canterbury region before we head north. Sightseeing, fishing, wine tasting, walking and of course eating are all a part of the plan.

An ”Old Bones” Sunrise

We’re currently staying at a backpackers called “Old Bones” just south of Oamaru on the east coast of the south island. This morning I awoke to the most amazing sunirse I’ve ever witnessed. I’ll let the picures do the talking:

Old Bones Sunrise Series
1st picture taken looking north
Old Bones Sunrise Series
Cloud formation in sky
Old Bones Sunrise Series
Birds flying over the field
Old Bones Sunrise Series
Solo piece of hay
Old Bones Sunrise Series
Looking north again 20 minutes after 1st picture
Old Bones Sunrise Series
Cloud formation #2
Old Bones Sunrise Series
Colorful sky looking east
Old Bones Sunrise Series
More birds flying around looking for breakfast

Our dogs are barkin’!

putting our feet up conical hill
Our "dogs" over the Hollyford Valley

Once again please excuse our absenteeism from the digital universe. For the past few weeks we’ve been traveling the west coast of the south island and have been out in nature exploring the amazing scenery.

I’m sure it sounds redundant by now but the natural beauty of New Zealand is remarkable. As we have ventured south the scenery seems to grow more expansive and impressive as the kilometers go by.

Over the past 2-3 weeks we’ve hiked, tramped, trekked, and backpacked to the point where we now are tending to blisters on our feet. Our dogs are barking loud and clear.

Here is a taste of what we’ve seen from north to south:

Starting out in Golden Bay we drove west and hiked into to Wharariki Beach where the wind was fierce. However, overcoming the natural elements had its rewards as we were treated to a close-up view of a family of seals lounging about the rocks while the younger pups played in a pool.

seal pups
seal pups @ Wharariki
all blacks
Tina on beach @ Heaphy Track

Just north of Karamea we hiked a couple hours into the Heaphy track which is tucked in between the rugged beaches and dense rain forest.

Later that afternoon we drove into the beautiful Oparara Basin where we hiked into to view a limestone arch that has been carved out by a small river over the past 35 million years.

A couple days later we hiked on the Cape Foulwind coastal walkway where the air was still and the sun was warm.

At Paparoa National Park we saw the famous pancake rocks and blowholes but also did an inland hike up over the hills and even forded the Porari River.

pancake rocks
Pancake Rocks

At Franz Josef we did a challenging 6.5 hour return hike up to Alex Knob above the clouds and above the buzzing helicopters where we were greeted with a beautiful day and view of the amazing glacier & the Tasman Sea. It’s a amazing that the a glacier and ocean can coexist in such proximity.

Franz Joseph Glacier
Franz Josef Glacier

Further south we stayed a couple days in Wanaka. From here we drove into Mt. Aspiring National Park via the beautiful Matukituki Valley and walked back to view the Rob Roy Glacier. Our timing was lucky because as soon as we arrived we witnessed an avalanche which was spectacular!

hanging out river side
Lunch by the river near Rob Roy Glacier

After staying in Arrowtown a night (just outside of Queenstown) we drove into the southern end of Mt. Aspiring National Park via the scenic Lake Wakatipu & Glenorchy. From here we did an overnight trip on the Routeburn Trek. Part of this area was used in the filming of the Lord of the Rings movies. The first afternoon we walked into Routeburn flats and set up camp. This is the most beautiful place I’ve ever camped.

not bad huh
Campsite at Routeburn Flats

The next morning we were on the track by 9AM and arrived on top of Conacil Hill at a quarter past noon. The views here were amazing. We could see up the Hollyford Valley all the way to the Tasman Sea approximately 20 miles away! We definitely earned our dinner that day after hiking for 8 hours!

Last week we took 4 days and did the Kepler Track in Fiordland National Park which begins at the southern tip of Lake Te Anau. From here we walked west and north and ascended past the tree line into the Kepler Mountains on our first day finishing at the Luxmore Hut. On the second day we hiked up the last 400 meters to the summit of Mt. Luxmore and then continued west along a ridge with amazing views of the South Fiord and surrounding mountains. After 3 hours we reached another lookout point and began hiking south for the Iris Burn hut tucked down in a valley below the tree line. On our third day we began our walk back toward Te Anau walking in a forested region along the Iris Burn river. Our last night was spent in the Moturau Hut on the banks of Lake Manapouri. From here we hiked out in the rain and were back to civilization.

Day 2 Kepler Trek
Begining of Day 2 on the Kepler
summit mt. luxemore
View from Summit of Mt. Luxmore, Kepler Track
Hiding in the trees
Tina under a tree, Kepler Track

Even though we’ve been extremely active in the past few weeks we’ve really only braised the surface in terms of areas to explore. The Fiordland & Mt. Aspiring National Parks are amazingly beautiful. Both Tina and I wish we’d have more time to immerse ourselves in these areas. I guess that will be our excuse for coming back in future years.

Aqua-tales

I don’t profess to be an efficient swimmer. In fact in the one and only triathlon I ever completed I was the 2nd to last swimmer out of the water in my heat of 50 competitors (the last guy must have drowned).

However, despite my lack of efficiency I do love to get wet and NZ offers endless opportunities for recreational swimmers like myself (Doug- you would love it here).

Here are some pictures from my swimming escapades:

South end of Lake Taupo
Walking in for a swim @ Lake Taupo

Evan Swinging
On the rope swing at "the cove" in Red Beach
daily swim for e
Tina caught this shot perfect as I enter the H2O @ Abel Tasman

Nomadic feels like home

We are alive, yes very ALIVE and doing well…We have ventured south to the south island of “ENZED” (as we now call it) and have not been disappointed yet, in fact far from it (Dear Mom, I am not coming home…). The endless scenery continues to amaze us both as we have worked our way around the rugged northwestern coast. Our journey has taken us to Golden Bay, Abel Tasman National Park, The Old Slaughter House and the Beaconstone (just some of the highlights). We find our selves now at the base of Franz Joseph Glacier for a day of recoup and checking back in with the world (Birthday Wishes to Whitney…Happy 30th, my friend!!!) before we head out for another taste of nature in a different setting.

One of the highlights of our journey thus far has been the varied places we have chosen to lay our heads and the ease of doing so in ENZED. We have not spent more than three days in one place yet we have felt very much at home. We have set our tent up at various spots along the way amongst the trees and mountains, along rivers and lakes, and along the sea. We drove into the night at Golden Bay to Shambhala to wake to sounds of birds and crashing waves, the tea house and days of yoga and meditation. We have learned about the joy of building a dream from scratch to share with other travelers of the world at the Old Slaughterhouse, and relishing in all it’s beauty from the sunny deck overlooking the wild western coast. We met new friends at the Beaconstone and watched golden sunsets, slept in silence and learned the lessons of conservation using solar power and compostable toilets. Each one of the experiences we have had have been very unique and memorable. The most interesting part of the lodges we have stayed in is there association with the backpacking network in ENZED called BBH, which is quite exceptional, extensive and inexpensive. Each place it seems has been built from the ground up and nurtured with a little ENZED hospitality and personality. We have certainly appreciated a home away from home.

‘Sweet As’

Tina and I have found our new favorite hideout in NZ (shoosh, don’t let anyone know). After ditching our digs in Red Beach we drove south on Saturday and landed in Raglan on the west coast (just west of Hamilton). This laid back little surfer town is what we imagine southern California to be like 40 years ago. It is friendly, unpretentious, and creative. It is also only a 10 minute drive to some of the best surf on this planet at Manu & Whale Bay (so we’re told- Glenn?).

Tina had never surfed and I only once. Yesterday we took a 3 hour lesson and got beat up pretty good. Undeterred we went for round 2 this morning. The waves were a little “cleaner” and the wind a little softer. With the more manageable conditions we each managed a few good rides. Grant it, the waves aren’t huge but you have to start somewhere. Sweet as!
Getting up surfing
e catchin the wave