Darkness Reveals Light

Written by my wife Tina:

Arriving by night in an unknown place can be a very challenging aspect to travel. For some reason Evan and I have managed to book the initial stages of our travels by night. Not only is the new destination a completely new navigational challenge on a map and on foot, the darkness adds a whole different challenge…and yet I have discovered, an amazing reward.

I have decided that arriving by night is the best way to come into an unfamiliar place as it leads much to the imagination which often times is squelched in daily life. At night often times the streets are quiet, the lights low, the colors have not yet revealed themselves and the smells (oh so prominent in Europe) have not yet wafted from the rafters.

By morning the city comes alive and the expectations of what would be revealed are totally different from what I first imagined–sometimes good and sometimes bad. Either way it’s nice to be surprised.

Cobbled stone streets of Lisbon

Tina and I have spent the last 3 days in Portugal. One aspect of Portugal that is different from the other places we’ve visited in Western Europe is the Moorish influence.

As we learned on our walking tour the Moors conquered much of the Iberian peninsula (present day Spain and Portugal) and ruled for several decades in the 8th century.

One of the areas in which you can see the Moorish influence today is in the cobbled stone streets of Lisbon. Although skateboarders must hate them they do offer a nice touch to this city. Here are a few pictures for you to see. you can view all the patterns by clicking this link.

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Ode al Mullet de España

While in Spain I became aware of a new sport that I am now very fond of. It is the sport of “Mullet hunting” and the native urban habitat of Barcelona proved to be extremely fertile. Here are some photos of my trophy catch:

Mullets in the market

Sweet Mullet in Spain Department store

mullet sighting number 2

another spanish mullet

mullet sighting number 3

another mullet

spanish mullet

yes, another one

Underground Mullet (on subway)

yes, another mullet

Air Mullet

Mullet with backpack

Beloved Bar”th”elona

Following our time in Italy we embarked for Barcelona, Catalania, Spain. Upon our arrival to Barcelona we did not have much in the way of expectations. I had heard of Barcelona but knew little about its size, culture, and orientation. Now that we’ve visited this city I can honestly say that even if we had held expectations I am certain they would have been exceeded.

Barcelona is a huge city (over 1.5 million inhabitants) with a very modern and metropolitan feel. A simple walking tour through one of the central districts is enough to understand this city’s rich architectural background, creative energy, and culinary prowess.

We arrived in Barcelona late on Monday night. Fortunately, the apartment we rented for the week, located in the L’Eixample district, was easy to find so we had no trouble locating and checking in that evening.

3176778381_bd682f48f6_mOn Tuesday we awoke and oriented ourselves to this new city. We first walked up to La Sagrada Familia which was only a few blocks from our apartment. This amazing structure was originally designed by Barcelona’s most famous architect Antoni Gaudi. Construction on this structure originally began in 1882 and continues today. Under the current plan it is not expected to be completed until 2026!

For me, La Sagrada Familia was the most interesting site we visited. In terms of size this cathedral is similar to the larger basilicas found throughout Italy. However this building differs from those in that the surrealistic & natural architectural themes create a much more modern design aesthetic.

What was also interesting for me was considering Gaudi’s thought process in designing this building. In stark contrast to modern society’s need for “immediate gratification” he designed and began construction knowing that he would pass well before the completion of this signature work that will become his legacy for future generations to experience. This is a must see Barcelona landmark.

The rest of the day on Tuesday was spent walking around the L’Eixample district and indulging in a great meal at La Rita restaurant which we’d highly recommend to other Barcelona travelers.

3187688884_5afcb2056a_mOn Wednesday we decided to venture out on a walking tour. From our apartment we walked to two other Gaudi designed buildings. After viewing the exterior of La Pedrera we toured the inside of Casa Batillo that was designed and built by Gaudi in the early 1900’s. The interior tour provided us with an even better understanding of Gaudi’s naturalistic influences.

From Casa Batillo we walked down to Barecelona’s most prominent open air market (Mercat de la Boqueria) right off La Rambla. The market was bustling with purveyors of produce, seafood, breads, meats, candy, and nuts. We enjoyed the culinary experience and returned later that afternoon to purchase local goods that we used in preparing our dinner that evening.3187726052_9a6f9eab06_m

After viewing all that mouth watering food our stomachs began to call for sustenance. We continued walking towards the water and turned east for the La Ribera District. We had a great tapes lunch at El Xampneyet amongst many other Barcelonans. The lunch concluded with some tangy boquerons en vinagre (white anchovies in vinegar).

From there we ventured up a couple blocks to Museo d’ Picasso. Although there are not many of his famous pieces here the collection offers an excellent cross-section of his work which starts with his more traditional portraits of his student days and progresses to his more abstract creations which he made in the latter years of his life.

On Thursday we continued our art tour by visiting the Museum of Contemporary Art. We viewed their permanent collection which featured pieces of diverse mediums including paintings, sculpture, graphic design, 3-D design, photography, and film. Among the many interesting piece’s on display I especially liked Marcel Broodthaers’ piece entitled, “A Cast of Dice Will Never Abolish Chance” (mainly because of its title).

After touring the museum we strolled through the thin streets of the El Raval district. It was here that we happened upon a small art shop called Siesta. After looking over the many wonderful works of art we ended up purchasing a piece by Mercedes Rodrigo who happened to be in the store at the time we purchased it. 3187801778_3361ea11c5Assuming that our Spanish was sufficient she’ll be shipping it home to Portland in the coming days. We’re excited to have a permanent memento in our home to symbolize our time spent in this great city.

After lunch we ventured up to Park Guell on the subway. This park is situated in the hills north of Barcelona proper and offers amazing views of the city landscape much like the Rose Garden does in Portland. It was here that Tina snapped this photo of me in my Rudy Fernandez shirt that has been submitted to the Blazers’. I’m hoping that they’ll broadcast it in their “wear in the world” segment during an upcoming televised blazer game (so keep your eye’s peeled).3186973311_738ea688ca

The Park was originally designed by Gaudi and is one of his only landscape architectural works. This is also where he spent the last 20 years of his life (Gaudi died unexpectedly in 1926 when he was struck by a garbage truck in Barcelona). The design of the park features many of the natural influences which are also evident in his structural designs.

Thursday afternoon we met up with my childhood friend Mike Diamond. Mike and I went to middle school and high school together. He is currently living in Barcelona (by sheer coincidence his apartment was only 2 blocks from where we stayed) and in the middle of an intensive 11-month MBA program. It was great to spend the evening with him and learn more about his insights into this great city.3187023133_3bc9d2a082_m

On Friday we took it easy and prepared for our travels to Portugal. Barcelona is a great city that I would highly recommend to other European travelers.

To see more photos of our visit to Barcelona click here and/ or here.

A pragmatic impression of Italy

In visiting Italy it is impossible not to be awestruck by the rich traditions of art & culture.  The awesome basilicas, astonishing art, and amazing cuisine are all impressive in their own right.  However, on this visit to Italy I was impacted by a much less romantic aspect of Italian life.
As we mentioned in our previous post, we were very fortunate to experience Italy with our Italian friends Edoardo and Odile.  Their families generously opened up their homes to us which offered us an inside perspective on Italian life.
What struck me in observing their household habits was that they are much more resourceful and efficient than we are in America.  Here are a few observed examples:

-Transportation: You will find much smaller and much more efficient cars in Italy.  This is probably due to two factors.  First, the cost of gasoline is the equivalent of approximately $5.55 per gallon (aprox. 1.09 euro per liter).  Second, the roads in Italy are much smaller especially in older town centers.  Either way, Italians have learned to manage by using smaller cars and by utilizing public transportation.

-Energy:  In addition to gasoline household energy is also much more expensive in Italy than in the US.  As a result, Italian households are extremely efficient.  In fact, on average, Italians consume about 40% of the energy that Americans do.

In all the homes we visited all doors to rooms were kept shut (to keep heat in the room) and lights were only used in areas which were occupied.  Furthermore, only rooms that were lived in were heated.
To save money, both Odile’s & Edoardo’s parents used wood instead of electricity or natural gas to heat their homes.  Edoardo’s mom even used wood for her stovetop to prepare food (which also provided heat for the kitchen).

wood burning stove for Polenta

In talking with Odile’s father he pointed out that local residential building codes were recently updated to require new homes to be built with double walls for insulation as well as solar panels for energy generation.  In fact, Edoardo’s father showed me the controls to their solar panel which was used to heat their hot water tank.

-Food: In sharing meals with Edoardo & Odile’s family we witnessed a meal with very little waste.  For example, Odile’s mother made us homemade vegetable soup.  In describing how she prepared the soup she told us that she puréed the vegetables and kept the leftover solid matter to make a vegetable broth for future use (in our household we would have likely thrown the leftover solid matter in the trash).

In having dinner with Edoardo’s family we found that virtually all the leftover food from our meal was saved for composting to use in their garden (which was the source of many of the tasty dishes on the table).  One notable exception was the sausage lining which was saved to feed their cat.

In summary, Italians have successfully managed to deal with higher prices for gas, energy, and consumption by cutting back without sacrificing quality of life.  I hope to retain these lessons for my life back home.  Grazi Italy.

Italy is best with friends!

Rizioni

A week has passed already and as they say… time flies when you are having fun. We have been fortunate to see Italy though an intimate lens thanks to our dear Italian friends Edoardo and Odile.

The week began, just outside of Venice in Odile’s home town of Mogilano. We were fortunate to meet Odile’s family who shared their home with us for most of our time in Italy. We spent a half day in Venice roaming the streets amongst the mass of “touristas”, with Odile as our guide. We lunched with a friend of Edoardo’s, a resident of Venice in his home (built in the 1500’s) near the grand canal. By night we did the “Bacari” tour which involves hopping from one bar to the next and having a bite and a glass at each stop. That evening Jet-lag-ed and wined we slept like babies.

Edorado, Odile, Letta and Ivan

The following day we visited Padova, the university town where Edoardo and Odile met. Edoardo shared stories of shenanigans he and his friends pulled and Edoardo and Odile reminisced upon their first date and favorite college memories. We roamed the streets and saw some of the most amazing food markets I have ever seen. In experiencing the markets you can understand why food is such a part of the culture in Italy. Little did we know our culinary tour had only just begun.
Formaggi

We spent New Year’s eve with some friends of Edoardo’s from his university days in a quintessential Italian villa in the hills near Tiene. The evening was complete with course after course of homemade Italian dishes, kids, fireworks, “disco inferno”, dancing, several inches of snow and of course prosecco, prosecco and more prosecco.

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Cavizzanna was our next stop, a tiny village nestled in the Val di Sol “Sun Valley” on the edge of the Dolomites (fitting for this Idaho girl). The village of Cavizzanna was where Edoardo grew up and where Edoardo and Odile were married. We spent two days with the Rizzi family and feasted on food that Edoardo’s mother prepared. The food was amazing most of which was harvested from the land nearby including the apple orchards that Edoardo worked as a young boy. The highlight for Tina was the making of homemade Polenta on a wood burning stove.

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We have said good-bye to our Italian friends for now and will head to Spain tomorrow. It has been a wonderful adventure so far and has been so because we have been among friends. We have them to thank for the experiences and memories that we have gained thus far. Ciao Italy!

See more photos here and here.

Arrived in Italy….the adventure begins!

After a long couple days and of traveling which took us from PDX to LAX to London-Heathrow to Rome to Treviso, Italy we have finally met up with our friends Odile and Edoardo.  We will spend the next few days with them before heading onto Barcelona.  We are currently in Odile’s hometown of Mogliano which is just outside of Venice (Venezia).

We wil be staying with Odile’s sister (Sara) and her family.  We have also met Odile’s parents who are very welcoming.

This afternoon we are heading into Venice to enjoy lunch with one of their friends as well as partake in bacari which is where we travel from bar to bar drinking wine and eating small plates.  It should be a blast.

We’re still trying to figure out internet access so the updates may be few and far between for now.

Evan’s 6-month sabbatical!

For those who haven’t heard the story before, it’s worth retelling:

After graduating from Linfield College, I set out to travel the world for a few months. I started in Seoul, South Korea, and gradually made my way to China. From China, I rode the Trans-Mongolian railway from Beijing to Moscow via Mongolia and Siberia. From Moscow, I traveled west through Eastern Europe into Poland, Austria, Italy, and into Southern France.

It was in a small town called La Ciotat that I went to stay with a college friend who was living there teaching English. It was that weekend that changed my life forever.

It just so happened that my friend’s college roommate was staying with her on the weekend that I arrived. Over $5 bottles of Bordeaux wine and fresh seafood, I had met my future wife. And the rest is history….

So what is the point of this story? The point is to illustrate that embedded in my wife and me is a desire to travel and experience new places.

On that note, I’ve announced that my wife and I are taking a six-month sabbatical beginning on December 28, 2008, returning June 24, 2009. Over the course of the next six months, my wife and I will spend time in Italy, Spain, Portugal, Sweden, but the bulk of our time will be in New Zealand.

Our plan to take an extended trip has been in the works for a couple of years, and we are very excited to finally realize the experience.

That said, I have taken steps in the office to ensure that in my absence the professionalism, expertise, and proactive service that you’ve come to expect from the Swanson & Johnston Lending Team will persist.

Aaron and I have worked closely over the past four years so that he would be ready to assume the responsibility of my desk during this time. I am very confident that he will do a great job. In fact, he and I have joked that, upon my return, I may find that the loyalties of my valued past clients and professional partners have shifted to him because of the extraordinary care he will have displayed while I am abroad.

So don’t be surprised to hear from Aaron over the course of the next few months. If you have questions about your mortgage, potentially refinancing, or buying a new home, do not hesitate to contact him. Furthermore, I would encourage you to refer your colleagues, friends, and family directly to Aaron while I’m away. His contact information is shown here:

Aaron Johnston

Office: 503.282.5626 xt. 413

email: aaron@mortgage-trust.com

Thank you for your support!